If the door is from the early end of that 1938-1976 range and the track, panel, and hardware are all original, a spring fix just buys you a few more months before the next part fails. At some point the labor to keep patching an original steel door costs more over two years than a new insulated door with a modern opener, especially with the cold-moderate winters putting real stress on old hardware every season. We'll tell you when that line has been crossed instead of running up a repair bill on a door that's done.
That said, plenty of the 1960s-70s doors in this area still have good bones - track, jamb, and header solid - and those are worth fixing, not replacing, every time. The call gets made on your door, in person, after the tech has actually looked at the track and the header, not guessed at it over the phone. When a repair will hold, a repair is what you'll get.